Make a beeline for the buzzing 'burb of Glenwood, and the Community Art Centre at Phansi Museum. Set ironically in an important example of the British Colonial style villa, Roberts House, it boasts a spectacular collection of Zulu arts and crafts, from medicine gourds to glass beads, cleverly displayed and vividly explained by guides – it's imperative to book (+27 (0)31 206 2889).
Next, head for the KZNSA Gallery, for great contemporary art . Scout the revamped gallery shop for home-grown pieces, from Musa Zincume's Afro Bravo bags made from sweet wrappers to Babette Noble's ceramics, and Hlengi Dube's beaded olive spoons and bracelets.
Sip a cappuccino under the trees at the Arts Café, then amble down Helen Joseph (Davenport) Road and lunch at the latest arrival on the busy restaurant scene: Roxi Wardman's Spoonful Eatery.
The pink-haired winner of MasterChef SA 2014 serves gourmet comfort food with a twist. Order a Bacon and Egg Bunny (a hollowed bun stuffed with bacon, egg, mushrooms, caramelised onions, cheddar and homemade chakalaka), or the Elvis, if you dare: banana bread French toast with peanut butter, crispy bacon, toasted peanuts, dark chocolate shavings and crème fraîche.
End lunch a few doors down at the delightful Boutique Boulangerie, for young desert queen Kirti Kamal's sumptuous cakes and tarts.
17:00 – Sundowner time
Cross the Berea to the quiet courtyard of Market Restaurant, and relax under the leopard trees beside the fountain with a tall glass of Poison City Brewing's Bird lager. Market's owner Andre Schubert and mate Graeme Bird's craft beer was first brewed in a friend's beach house.
They describe it as ‘like Durban – easy as sun, surf and seagulls, with a twist of screw you’. Stay for dinner. For something light, the warm hoisin plum shred duck salad with citrus segments is delectable, else dive into the flame-grilled fillet or white truffle spaghetti Carbonara.
21:00 – Jazz it up
Head for the Point Waterfront, and The Chairman. The city's coolest bar and jazz loung was created by KwaMashu-born architect Ndabo Langa in the ruined shell of a 100-year-old building.
It serves hot live sounds (be ready to dance!) and snack platters of traditional Zulu delicacies (goat with dumplings) with a sophisticated edge, in a wickedly plush setting. Order a Kind of Blue cocktail (with Johnny Walker Blue, of course), and get in the groove.
9:00 – Brunch bunch
Make for Durban's buzzing new Station Drive precinct off Umgeni Road, where factory buildings have been converted for mixed creative use, with a deliciously eclectic mix of tenants.
They don't come more delicious than at its Morning Trade artisanal food market, held every Sunday morning: a celebration of the city's best fresh produce and food.
Sample Athos Euripidou's souvlaki (skewered lamb in pita with chilli and tahina), Ralf Bronzin's oak-smoked scotch eggs, and Debbie Rich's crunchy salad-stuffed vegan, gluten-free wraps in cones of compressed root veggies.
Explore the Con Amore décor warehouse next door, with award-winning fashion designer Terrence Bray's 'walk in wardrobe' boutique, then head for woodturner Andrew Early's design studio, filled with fine bowls and benches.
Continue to Savior Brand, for hand-tooled leather smartphone cases and wallets produced on the premises, and fine coffee, then head upstairs to Distillery031. The city's first craft distillery produces limited-edition artisanal spirits – vodka, cachaça, gin, spiced rum and absinthe, served with the likes of mac 'n cheese balls and zucchini crisps.
Join the rest of Durban, relaxing in the Victorian splendor of the Durban Botanic Gardens. Picnic beside the lake on your market finds, feed the ducks, read the Sunday papers, then take one of the recently launched guided golf-cart tours of its more remarkable botanical specimens – like the cannonball tree with lethal fruit!
15:00 – Homeward bound
The last British Airways flight to Jo’burg leaves at 17:55, the last to Cape Town at 14:40, else opt for a Monday milk flight. The one to Joburg departs at 06:30, the one to Cape Town at 06:25.
This gives you an afternoon to sunbathe on Umhlanga beach, then indulge in some retail therapy and an Imax movie or Barnyard show at Gateway Theatre of Shopping.